The Journal

Stories & local tips

Guides, hidden gems and travel notes from Durrës and around Albania, written by people who live here.

15 stories published

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Albanian Folk Dances: History, Regions & Traditions

In Albania, a celebration isn't finished until someone starts a valle. At weddings, village festivals and family gatherings, people join hands, form a circle or a line, and follow a lead dancer, who usually waves a handkerchief to set the…

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Best Ways to See Durrës: On Foot, By Car, By Bike or ATV

Durrës is compact enough that you can see the old town in half a day, but the best way to do it depends on where you're staying, how much time you have, and how…

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Autumn Day Trips from Tirana: Durrës, Kruja & Berat

Autumn Day Trips from Tirana: Durrës, Kruja & BeratMost day trip guides from Tirana are written with summer in mind, which means heat, crowds, and a lot of advice…

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Durrës in Autumn: Sea Temperature, Beach Weather & What to Do

Most guides to Durrës are written for July and August. Autumn gets very little coverage, which is a shame, because it's a good time to be here: the crowds thin out…

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Durrës Shore Excursions: What to Do on a Cruise Stop

Many Durrës shore excursions sold on board leave town straight away, for Krujë or Tirana. You don't have to. Cruise ships tie up in the city's own harbour, right…

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Arriving in Durrës by Ferry: Port to City, Step by Step

The overnight ferry from Bari gets in at about eight in the morning, and Durrës ferry port is not out in some industrial zone. It sits at the edge of the city…

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Korça, Albania: The Little Paris of the Balkans

Tucked into the southeast corner of Albania, close to the borders of Greece and North Macedonia, Korça doesn't look or feel like the rest of the country, and that's…

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How Many Days Do You Need in Albania? A Practical Trip-Length Guide

This is the question almost everyone asks before booking flights, and the honest answer is: it depends on what kind of trip you want, not just how much vacation…

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Things to Do in Durrës: A Complete Guide Beyond the Beach

Say "Durrës" to most travelers and they'll picture sun loungers and a long sandy waterfront. Fair enough, the beach is real, and it's ten kilometers of it. But the…

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Best Day Trips from Tirana: 5 Places Worth Leaving the Capital For

One of the best things about basing yourself in Tirana is how little time it takes to be somewhere completely different, a Roman amphitheatre, an Ottoman hilltop…

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Fërgesë, Qumështor, Sultjaç: 3 Albanian Comfort Foods You Need to Try

Albanian cuisine doesn't get the spotlight that its Balkan neighbors do, but ask anyone who grew up here what "comfort food" means, and you'll hear the same three…

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Durrës Amphitheatre: History, Visiting Hours, and Why It's Underrated

Most visitors to Durrës head straight for the beach and never notice they're walking a few streets away from the largest Roman amphitheatre in the Balkans. That's a…

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Three days on the Albanian Riviera, without the crowds

The road from Vlora climbs for forty minutes before it shows you anything. Then the Llogara pass drops away and the whole Ionian coast is below you at once, a…

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Elbasan in half a day: castle walls, ballokume and a very good coffee

Elbasan is an hour from Tirana on a good road, and almost nobody stops. The city wears its history awkwardly, a Roman fortress with apartment blocks growing out of…

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When to visit Albania: a month-by-month guide

Albania has a short, ferocious high season and nine other months that almost nobody writes about. The sea is warm well into October, the mountains are impassable…

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