Things to Do in Durrës: A Complete Guide Beyond the Beach
Say "Durrës" to most travelers and they'll picture sun loungers and a long sandy waterfront. Fair enough — the beach is real, and it's ten kilometers of it. But the old town, just a short walk inland, holds one of the densest concentrations of Roman and Byzantine history on the Albanian coast, most of it overlooked by people who never leave the sand. Here's what's actually worth seeing.
Durrës Amphitheatre
Start here. Built in the 2nd century AD under Roman Emperor Trajan, this is the largest Roman amphitheatre in the Balkans, once holding around 20,000 spectators. Buried under residential houses for centuries, it was only rediscovered in 1966, which is why it now sits oddly nestled among modern apartment buildings rather than in an open park. Inside, look for the underground tunnels and a small early Christian chapel with faded wall mosaics — a rare physical trace of the empire's shift from gladiator games to Christianity. Open daily, roughly 9:00–19:00, with an entrance fee of around 300 Lek.
Byzantine Forum (Anastasius Forum)
A short walk from the amphitheatre, this is what remains of the city's Byzantine-era marketplace, dated to somewhere between the 6th and 9th centuries. It's a modest cluster of Corinthian columns and paved marble, but it's easy to stand among them and picture the plaza that once stood here, statue of the reigning emperor included.
Roman Baths
Close to the forum are the remains of Durrës's Roman thermal baths, discovered in the 1960s alongside the amphitheatre. You can still make out the layout of a calidarium, tepidarium, and frigidarium — the hot, warm, and cold rooms of a proper Roman bathing routine — along with a black-and-white tiled pool. Interestingly, part of the site was preserved directly beneath the Aleksandër Moisiu Theatre when it was built, so the ruins and the modern theatre share the same ground.
Byzantine Wall & Venetian Tower
Durrës's city walls date back to the 5th century, built under Byzantine Emperor Anastasius I — who, fittingly, was born here. Originally stretching over 3 kilometers around the old city with roughly 30 watchtowers, only a fragment survives today, best preserved in the western part of the old town. This is also where you'll find the cylindrical Venetian Tower, added in the 15th century, standing about 9 meters tall with walls thick enough to have doubled as an artillery post. It's one of the better viewpoints over the old town and the Adriatic.
Xhamia Madhe (The Great Mosque)
Built in 1931 under King Zog I on the site of an earlier Ottoman-era mosque, the Great Mosque sits near the old town hall and is one of two historic mosques worth seeking out in Durrës (the other, the Fatih Mosque, is a short walk northwest along the old wall and worth a look for its decorated prayer niche).
Orthodox Church of Saint Paul and Saint Asteios
Tucked near the BKT bank building in the city center, this small Orthodox church is easy to miss but worth a quiet stop if you're already walking the old town circuit — a contrast to the Roman and Ottoman-era sites nearby.
Durrës Balcony (Ballkoni i Durrësit)
A viewpoint above the city offering a wide look over the rooftops and the coastline. It involves a bit of a climb and some walking to reach, so it's better suited to visitors who don't mind spending the effort for the view, rather than a quick add-on to a half-day itinerary.
How to See It All
Realistically, the amphitheatre, forum, baths, wall, and Venetian Tower are all within easy walking distance of each other in the old town — you could cover the core sites in half a day. Add the mosques, the church, and a stop for byrek or a coffee, and it's a full and satisfying day without ever needing a car.
If you'd rather have the history explained as you go instead of piecing it together from scattered plaques, our Durrës Walking Tour covers all of the sites above with a local guide filling in what the signage doesn't.
